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Allen is venerating of the works breeders and nutrient chemists who get worked diligently to metamorphose the tomato from a extremely seasonal, sternly spoilable yield (yes, it’s a yield) into a serviceable, travel-hardy, year-round foodstuff basic and industrial factor. Accomplishing this has meant decades of selective fosterage aimed at underdeveloped lasting, disease-resistant specimens ordered in sizing, configuration, and gloss. If the “tomato engineers’’ of the story don’t ploughshare the urban gourmet’s cacoethes for the touchy and composite flavors of a amply right, garden-fresh tomato, it’s plainly because that hasn’t been their stress.

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